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| NOTICE BOARD |
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| TOP TIPS |
GARDEN
GNOME’S
GOOD GARDENING GUIDE :
GARDEN GNOME’S SPRING TASKS
BEDS: harvest last of winter crops and put all debris
in newly emptied compost bins; add organic matter to
soil, mulch where and when appropriate, dig in green
manures 1 month before sowing; rake seedbeds smooth;
warm soil with cloches or plastic sheeting, hoe as weeds
appear; apply seaweed meal or other organic fertilizer
2 weeks before sowing. Carrots and parsnips don’t
want organic matter.
SOWING & PLANTING: early spuds and onion sets from
mid March; maincrop spuds and red onion sets: early to
mid April. Under cloches: beetroot, carrots, parsnips,
turnips, radishes and leeks and peas. In modules in the
greenhouse: lettuce, rainbow chard, spinach and summer
cabbage.
March in heat: tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, cucumbers,
celery, celeriac.
April in heat: French and runner beans, courgettes and
squash.
March moon planting: new on 7th, full on Good Friday
21st; planting time: 16th -27th; (sowing any of following
days); fruit: 2nd &3rd, 11th,18th- 20th,29th- 30th;
root: 4th, 12th&13th, 24th, 31st; leaf: 8th & 9th,
17th, 27th & 28th; flower: 6th, 16th, 25th & 26th.
Moon planting for April: New moon 6th, full moon 20th;
planting time (descending moon) 11th -24th. Sowing can
be done at any time.
Roots: 1st, 8th -10th, 19th, 27th -29th; Flowers: 2nd & 3rd,
11th &12th, 21st -23rd, 30th;
Leaves: 5th & 6th, 13th & 14th, 22nd& 23rd;
Fruit: 8th, 14th & 15th, 21st, 25th, 27th;
Everything on 24th until 3 pm.
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| BENEFICIAL BORDERS |
Cornflower(Centaurea cyanus),
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima), Borage (Borago officinalis),
Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum), Anise Hyssop (Agastache
foeniculum), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria),
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Mountain Mints (Pycnanthemum
virginianum and P. muticum), Pussy willows (Salix
species) and corn (tassels produce a lot of pollen).
Clump forming grasses will provide cosy winter homes
for the ladybirds and ground beetles e.g. Blue wildrye,
Deer grass and Orchard grass…
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Ladybirds and lacewings, ground
beetles, hoverflies and bees: friendly insects in an organic
garden because they feed on aphids and other pests and
pollinate
crops increasing yield. A beneficial plant is one that
can make a good sheltering site for these insects or flowers
that yield high levels of nectar and pollen, food for our
friends. A new report by Cheryl Long presents a long list
of plants that will not only help the insects to thrive
but will also look good in flower borders or as companions
amongst fruit and vegetables. Here's her top ten, find
more
on the website www.organicgardening.com/library/beneficialborder
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| SLUGS KILL GARDENERS |
| It's late summer
and the tidal wave of despair has subsided. But it was
only a few months ago that the rain was unending and we
were awash with a sea of snails and slugs. Tails of devastation
abounded: total wipeout of salads and only a third of
the runner bean crop survived at the Forest Garden even
though they were protected by beer traps and plastic bottles
, sweet peas repeatedly nibbled to the ground, shredded
brassicas…we all had our tales of woe.
Whilst it may be too late to replace lost crops this year,
time abounds to reflect on our defence strategies. Don't
lose your plot just yet. |
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First, a word or two about slug
pellets. Please avoid using these. If your neighbours use
them, ask them to hide the pellets under slates or tiles.
In the August edition of "The Kitchen Gardener",
a letter was printed on behalf of the manufacturers, Doff
Portland, which attempted to allay our fears over the harmful
effects of the chemical metaldehyde. "Slug pellets
do not harm garden wildlife or pets if they are used responsibly.
Despite extensive research we've found no evidence that
slug pellets have caused the death of non-target species,
including birds, when used according to instructions."
We asked HDRA for their response to these claims . Their
information department advises us as follows: "Our
advice is that slug pellets are not acceptable, or suitable
for use, in an organic garden. They contain toxic chemicals
that can harm many creatures. Dogs have died after eating
them, children have become extremely ill. It is hard to
know how many other creatures are affected as wildlife rarely
expires in a convenient place where it can be seen. Dying
creatures tend to secrete themselves in out-of-way corners,
where their bodies rot unnoticed. There is rarely any chance
to analyse for cause of death."
Thankfully, there are plenty of organic alternatives to
experiment with. Sammy the suicide slug has gathered an
incredible variety of extermination methods and displayed
them for all to see on the CAT (Centre for Alternative Technology)
website. Well worth a look if you can stomach the illustrations.
The most popular method from this list appears to be the
slug pub. A few drops of beer too dreary for human consumption
can remove and destroy night after night, just top up the
tipple and chuck out the sluggy slops in the morning. Each
square metre should have a pub on the corner but be careful
not to take out our friendly ground beetles at the same
time: give them a stick to climb out on or position container
rims a couple of centimetres above ground level.
In the news recently are the latest crazes of caffeine and
copper rings. A cup of coffee can kill, possibly it damages
their nervous systems. Slugs fall to "uncoordinated
writhing" before death. Copper rings on the other hand
belong to the barrier method and form an impassable wall
around an individual plant, a more palatable solution for
the "Buddhists" amongst us.
I had success with "slugstoppers" this year around
my French beans, no losses and a stress free life (see article
in last newsletter) and a neighbouring allotmenteer grew
an impressive salad crop under a tent of enviromesh, edges
well buried, having firstly ensured, of course, that the
protected area was free of the uninvited. A dry "moat"
of bare soil around the area helped to deter. (Talking of
moats, molluscs are not known for their swimming skills…)
Other barriers may be built with bran or salt both of which
dehydrate the slimy creatures, or lay a mulch of salty seaweed
or oak leaves and shredded bark. At least soil nutrition
will be improved. (Too much salt, though, is not good for
heavy, clay soils ).
Another favourite is the decoy trap of wilting leaves idea.
Surround plants with freshly picked comfrey or lettuce,
for example, for them to munch through (I also found poppy
leaves worked). The pesky plunderers can be collected and
removed but I found that if they had enough to eat they
were less likely to move on to the favoured plant. Of course
they don't eat everything. Boost a broken morale by planting
something from the list of untouchables*. Grow more red
lettuce than green, onions, garlic and roots or masses of
nasturtiums - once it gets going they can't keep up with
the supply.
But perhaps the most ideologically sound and therefore appealing
way of dealing with this problem is to create a natural
balance of predator and prey in our gardens. By encouraging
more wildlife into our gardens we feel that all is as it
should be and any crop losses more acceptable. Natural predators
of slugs and snails include ducks and chickens, frogs and
toads, slow-worms, blackbirds, thrushes and hedgehogs. Dig
out a pond, leave areas of grass uncut and piles of wood
to rot. (Derelict allotments may be havens for lots of small
creatures). Be extra careful around the compost heap- a
popular resting area for wildlife and be patient. Natural
balance takes time.
For more information on organic controls:
Comprehensive leaflet from HDRA, "Slug Control",
25p with SAE to HDRA, Ryton Organic Gardens, Coventry,
CV8 3LG
Send SAE for info on hedgehogs and wildlife gardens to:
British Hedgehog Preservation Society, Hedgehog House,
Dhustone, Ludlow, Shropshire, SY8 3PL
Websites:
www.ihateslugs.com
www.cat.org.uk
tip sheet on slugs details comfrey method
www.slugrings.co.uk
info on copper rings and supplier
www.slugstopper.com
* We would like to compile a list of plants that slugs
and snails do not eat. Email your top ten bhoggroup@yahoo.co.uk
Helen Gibbs
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| HERBAL LORE |
Hedgehog Herbs is a non-profit
project run by volunteers in conjunction with the Friends
of Queen's Park and Brighton and Hove City Council. The
aim is to increase plant diversity by growing an organic
herb garden in the wildlife area in Queen's Park. The garden
is to raise awareness about endangered herbs as well as
to increase the wildlife. Whilst writing this it is believed
that a fox has made its den in one of the raised beds!
There are four raised herb beds and planting is divided
into
1. Herbs for Skin, Immune and Nervous Systems
2. Herbs for the Digestive System
3. Cardiac and Respiratory herbs
4. Herbs used for the Reproductive and Urinary Systems
Workshops are run on a variety of different subjects from
making your own herbal tea bags, seed saving, walks to identify
herbs and making simple remedies.
Costs are kept to a minimum and workshops are £5 or
£3 concessions. Julia Behrens who is a medical herbalist
gives an awe inspiring talk and I defy anyone not to want
to plant a herb after hearing her speak! Fran Saunders provides
an interesting selection of both medicinal and culinary
herbs which are sold to help keep the project running.
Volunteers are always welcome to help maintain the garden,
collect seed and grow herbs. For more information on workdays,
walks or herbs contact Fran on 01273 381686 or email on
mefransaunders@aol.co
Herb Tip - Milk Thistle (Silybum)
Some plants do not like to be moved preferring to be sown
'in-situ' and Milk Thistle is one of those plants. Seed
is available from July through to September and the seed
should be black and shiny. Sow where you want the plant
to grow but remember this plant is huge growing up to
4 feet in height. It is a perfect permaculture plant as
the leaves are a spinach substitute (but are so prickly),
the roots are supposed to taste like salsify when boiled
and the flower heads taste like artichokes. Medicinal
use of Milk Thistle is as the only herb known to regenerate
the liver. Milk Thistle also aids digestion of fats and
increases milk in nursing mothers.
When you divide your chives, bear
in mind that:
:: planted near roses they will repel aphids
:: near apple trees they will prevent scab
:: they also have a fungicidal effect which protects against
black spot and mildew but don't plant them near peas or
beans
For red spider mite:
:: chop the leaves of lemon balm and make an infusion
in boiling water, allow to cool and soak the area around
infected plants
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To
find out more, contact:
Jenni Cresswell (Chair) 549823
Kim Day (Secretary) 691785
Ruth Urbanowicz (Organic Advice) 681120
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